Monday, June 26, 2006

Slovakia: Conclusion

I traveled around the country, climbed a mountain near Polana, drank beer, stayed at a luxury resort hotel, met more relatives, saw another castle, and finally had a date with Eva on the last night I was in Trnava. It was fun, but eventually I had to leave. I'll always remember Slovakia.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Picnic at the Old House

Dad took me to lunch at a restaurant at a penzion in a small town called Bytca. Later, we went to a picnic dinner at the "old house," the house in Bytca where Anna grew up in the days of Communist rule. It's an old farmhouse surrounded by tall trees that make it look like an island of greeen where it sits in a small sea of highway construction. Ernest and Ondrej where there, and Eva was barbecuing a lot of food. I met Anna's brother Stephan, who is quite a character. Ondrej was entertaining us with his jokes. Louis was there with his family. He translated Ondrej's jokes for us. I'll paraphrase one of them:

"When Gorbachev was the premiere of the Soviet Union, ten of his general died all at once from eating poisoned mushrooms. After the KGB investigated, they reported that three of the generals had also been shot in the head. When Gorbachev asked the KGB about those three generals, they said, 'Oh, those were the ones who refused to eat the mushrooms.'"

I filled up with food quickly, so when Christina and Steven were ready to go back to the penzion in Sulov, I went back with them. We ended the evening by watching the DVD of King Kong that I had brought with me.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Sulov

We stayed at a penzion in a canyon by a village called Sulov. It's a nice place to hike in the hills, which are craggy and jagged in places.

Monday, June 19, 2006

Pieštany

The family and I went to visit family and friends in Pieštany, a nearby town in Slovakia which is known for its spas. (By "the family," I mean Dad, Anna, and Louis with his family: his wife, Karen, and his kids, Christina and Steven.) People have been going to Pieštany for a thousand years, seeking the healing powers of the spas there.

The family we visited was Ernest, Anna's brother, and his wife, Eva. Ernest is an engineer who works with the wind turbines that have recently appeared in Slovakia. He and Eva live in one of those ugly high rise apartments with an elevator inside that's not much bigger than a phone booth. The inside of Ernest's apartment looked a lot better than the outside. On one wall, they have prints of drawings by Alphonse Mucha, the famous Czech painter from the Art Nouveau period. For lunch, we had soup, haluški and kolác. Haluški is a dish with potato noodles in cheese. Kolác is a poppy seed pastry. It was a good meal. Ernest showed me a video of the wedding of his daughter, Lenka. She married a British Royal Marine.

The friends we visited were Peter and his wife. Peter used to work as a nuclear physicist, but now he works as a consultant, and he seems to be doing very well. His house is a mansion with its own workout room, laundry, spa, and wine cellar in the basement. The paintings on the wall vary from fine art to modern art. A curving staircase leads upstairs. The upper floor is an apartment for his daughter. She wasn't there, but we met her cat. After the tour of the mansion, we went to an elegant restaurant at a local penzion for dinner. The muzak they were playing was strange. It was Slovak bands playing rock hits from the 60's and 70's, including some Beatles songs. They didn't sound like the Beatles. After dinner, we walked around town and saw the sights, which were mainly the local parks, hotels, and a nearby church. The sun was still up in the evening. It was muggy and hot, so we got some ice cream.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Sunday, June 18, 2006

Max: The Mall

There's a mall in Trnava called "Max." It has about 20 stores and looks pretty much like any mall in America, except that it has a pub that sells alcohol. There's a Sony store and clothing stores selling the latest fashions while hip hop music plays in the background. There's also a movie theater showing Over the Hedge, except with Slovak subtitles. I had just learned how to take still photos with my camera when I went there, so I walked around and took a few stills. A couple of cops came up to me and started talking to me. I don't know what they were saying, but they were pointing at the camera. I got the message. I thought it was strange that they wouldn't want me to take pictures in a mall, but I didn't want to make any trouble. I turned off the camera and left to make them happy.

Saturday, June 17, 2006

Bratislava

Dad and I took the bus to Bratislava, which is only about a half-hour's drive from Trnava. We walked around in the old city, which developed around a castle during the Middle Ages, like so many other towns in Europe. Many of the buildings there were rebuilt during the eighteenth century and look like buildings in Prague. You could say the Bratislava is Prague Light. We visited a museum showing items from the history of Bratislava, starting with a model of the old town made of copper. One of the first exhibits had tools found in the area dating back to the Stone Age. The museum itself was in a building that used to be the castle. We found an exhibit displaying instruments of torture in the dungeon. Areas in the upper floors displayed art artifacts from various periods, including weapons and coins. A tower with a clock on it took us up where we got a great view of the old town. Back in the old town, we saw other fascinating sights. There is a church there that was once bombarded by canon fire. One of the canonball is still stuck in the wall. It has been left there intentionally, as a kind of momento. The old town was once surrounded by a wall with four gates. The wall is mostly gone now, and the only gate remaining is one called St. Michael's gate.

After our visit to the old town, we took a boat ride on the River Danube. The boat ride started by a steel bridge built during the communist era. It has a just one suspension arch which looks like an A-frame leaning toward the land at a strange angle. There is a disk-shaped restaurant at the top of the arch. It looks like a UFO ran into the arch and got stuck in it. The whole effect is aggressive and unattractive, as if the Communists were trying too hard to impress the world and failed. It's close to Bratislava Castle, which is currently being used by the government as an office building. The Parliament building is next door. During the boat ride, we saw a couple of guys on jet skis rocket past the boat. One of them wiped out. After he righted himself, he wiped out again. We all found it rather entertaining, since the guy didn't get hurt.

While we were waiting at the bus station for the bus back to Trnava, Dad and I saw a guy trying to pull the grill off the bottom front of a vending machine. He looked like a yound punk. I don't know what he was trying to do. We didn't do anything about it. I was showing Dad some of the video I had taken with my camcorder. The young punk came up and started talking to us and pointing at my camcorder. It seemed he thought I was taping him. We tried to tell him that I wasn't taking his picture. He didn't go away at first. I thought I might have to kick his butt. He wasn't as big as me, so I didn't think it would be hard, but he eventually left us alone.

Back in Trnava, Dad and I waited for Anna to bring my stepbrother Louis and his family to Trnava from Vienna Airport. We waited at Trnavsky Dvor, a restaurant and bar across the street. Dad said this place was an empty lot just a few years ago. Now it's an open air tavern made of red bricks and unvarnished wood. When this place gets crowded, people start sitting in the empty seats next, according to Dad. Later, that's exactly what happened. A lovely woman named Eva and her friend, Egil, sat with us. Eva was curious about Dad. She thought he was Japanese. Dad explained that he's Filipino. We had a few beers with Eva before Dad left to check on Anna's progress. Egil and Eva told me that Egil was working with her on translating a book of her poetry from Slovak to Norwegian. I had no idea I'd meet a published poet there. Several times during the conversation, Egil would make speeches about how the European knows his own heritage but the American must struggle to find out who he is. I had to agree as someone of mixed race who grew up in America. Often when Egil would pontificate about society, Eva would give me a playful smile, as if to say, "Isn't it funny they way he goes on like that?" I told her the one Japanese phrase I know: "Nihon go'a hanase masen," which means, "I do not speak Japanese." She laughed and told me the phrase which means, "I do speak Japanese." We hit it off right away. I got her phone number. We agreed to meet the next week, after she was finished working with Egil.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Friday, June 16, 2006

Prague

The drive from Trnava to Prague took six hours, but the drive was quite scenic. Everything is green here, from the potato farms to the forests. Every few kilometers we saw a village of houses with red roofs nestled among green hills. Usually there's a church steeple in the village. Each one of these places looks like a painting. There was also the sight of drag concrete high rise apartments in Bratislava left over from the communist era. They look more like tall cinderblocks.

When we got to Prague, we got lost looking from the penzion, a kind of small hotel. The streets wind around like spaghetti, so it's easy to get lost. Once we found it, we stayed overnight and went downtown. While we were waiting for a tour of the city to start, we visited the Museum of Communism. It was interesting to see the samples of propaganda vilifying the west with cartoons of an evil Uncle Sam infecting crops in Czechoslovakia with parasites. A replica of a communist store offered a few shelves of the same boring canned goods. There was an interrogation room with information about how the communists turned each other in as traitors to gain favor with the Russian government. Another room showed a video of the Velvet Revolution and the fall of communism in 1989. Plain clothes cops were beating up protestors. I found it amusing that, just outside the museum of communism, there is a McDonald's.

The tour of the city was great. Prague is fantastic. It's full of beautiful buildings from the eighteenth century, but the buildings aren't as official and imperial as the ones in Vienna. They're friendly and colorful. We saw the Charles bridge and the National Theatre building, which burned down just after it was built, then rebuilt. Prague Castle was an amazing sight. The oldest parts of the castle date back to the ninth century A.D., but successive rulers continued to add to it until the eighteenth century, so the place is a mix of building styles. The Cathedral of St. Vitus is a Gothic cathedral bigger than some aircraft hangers. The outside has buttresses, gargoyles, and statues of saints, like most cathedrals of the time. The inside seems to have enough space for a blimp to fly around in it. The church of St. Charles is next to door. It's a much older and simpler church, except for one entrance with a Baroque style that was added later.

Dad and I walked along the Charles bridge after the tour and had lunch in the square beyond. There's a church there with mechanical saints who look out through a door when the bell rings the hour. The square was crowded with tourists. I found out later that this area is a tourist trap with overpriced food, but it was still fun.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Vienna

After I got up in the morning, Anna served me breakfast. Along with coffee, she gave me a piece of bread with a kind of sheep cheese called brina. It's not salty like goat cheese and tastes like feta cheese, but smoother.

Dad took me to Vienna. On the way I saw some of the new developments in Slovakia since the fall of communism. We passed by an Ikea at a mall. It reminded me of the Burbank Mall. I saw signs for a McDonald's and a Pizza Hut. Later, when we got to the capital, Bratislava, we passed over the River Danube, I saw that it's not really blue, but more of a muddy color, like the Mississippi River; it's probably been like that since way before the communists lost power. We drove over a bridge spanning the river. I could see Bratislava Castle from there.

Vienna was interesting. We had to get to a travel agency in the center of Vienna to pick up tickets for our tour of the city. That was complicated. Some of the streets are big and straight, but toward the center they snake around a lot. That's because they were designed for foot traffic centuries ago. After we got the tickets, we had lunch at an Italian restaurant. They had the best lasagna there I've probably ever had, lasagna made by an Italian chef.

The tour bus took us around to show us important buildings in the city, most of them built around 1800 by the Hapsburgs, such as Belvedere Palace, built by Prince Eugen, who fought the Turks for forty years.. We stopped at palace of Schönbrun, the favorite summer palace of Maria Theresa Hapsburg. It was huge. She had sixteen children and each one had to have five rooms and five servants. The tour gave me a chance to break in my new camcorder. I wondered who'd want to live in a place that big. You'd have to spend all your time walking just to get to another room. Also, in the time of Maria Theresa, there was no indoor plumbing. No water, no toilets. No thanks.

Click here to see pictures of Slovakia.

Tuesday, June 13, 2006

Trnava

My father picked me up at the airport in Vienna and took me to a little town in Slovakia called Trnava, where he and his wife have a house. As soon as we got inside, their Shi-Ztu, Shamu, was happy to see me. He kept jumping up on my leg. Anna, my stepmother, gave me a tour of their house. There's a garden in back with a well-manicured lawn. There's a bedroom upstairs that's larger than the one I have at my apartment at home. A large window in the room reveals a view of the garden. There is also a computer here with high speed internet access. This is the room of my sister Monika. She's in London right now. The room I'm staying in is across the hall. I tried to plug my laptop in with the power transformer that I bought in California, but it doesn't work for computers. It only works for charging up my camcorder. Bummer.

Dad gave me a tour of Trnava. It's just like any beautiful little European village you've ever seen. I was thinking, "It's nice to see that not all of the world is Los Anageles," but then I saw that some buildings have graffiti on the walls. We had pizza at a local restaurant. The place looked like a cowboy tavern because it was all made of unfinished wood. We had pizza, but it didn't taste like American pizza. The crust was very thin. The beer was good. It's called Pilsner. It's very smooth. I'll have to buy some when I get back to Los Angeles.

After dinner we walked back to the house. I was tired. I showered and went to sleep quickly.

On to Vienna

I slept in Terminal 6 at LAX, lying on three seats in a row. I didn't sleep very much or for very long. I thought of that phrase from The Da Vinci Code, "So dark the con of man," and how I would change it to fit the situation: "So hard the cot of LAX." There weren't many people there in the terminal, but I kept my hand on my stuff when I was sleeping, and often tried to sleep with my eyes half-open.

My flight left at 7. The in-flight movie was Firewall, which I thought was an exciting Harrison Ford vehicle, except for the part about the dog. Why didn't the bank robbers kill the dog if they were willing to kill one of their own fellow thieves?

My flight from New York to Poland was also delayed by an hour. The LOT Polish Airlines people said that it was because of the cleaning crew. I got to chat with some people in a missionary group. They were planning to tour Europe, starting in Russia, with a chorale called Savior. They had an orchestra, a choir, and a dance troupe with them. Later, when I got on the plane, I heard someone hammering downstairs in the plane. Was that the "cleaning crew"? Or were they putting one of the wheels back on? I didn't much like the service on that flight. When they flight attendants came around with drinks, I asked for a 7-Up. On the United flight out of L.A. I got a can of Sprite and a little plastic glass full of ice, but on this plane, they gave me a little plastic cup of warm 7-Up with no ice. I asked for ice. The stewardess put one little ice cube in my glass. I suppose the ice is for first class on Polish Airlines.

In Warsaw I transferred to an Austrian flight to Vienna. It was a small plane, so after we landed in Vienna, the captain said that we could get our luggage just outside the plane. Many people did. I waited there with a guy from Chicago who was on his was to the Czech Republic. The two of us were trying to figure out if we were supposed to get our luggage by the plane, since we had both transferred from other flights. We explained the situation to a lady from Austrian Airlines who was carrying a hand radio. "You are not allowed to get your luggage here!" she said. "Get on the bus!" Man, they're strict in Austria.

Monday, June 12, 2006

Europe Delayed

The past few days have been hectic. On top of getting ready for my trip to Europe, I was also making a DVD of the staged reading of my play, meeting with the artistic director of my workshop, buying a laptop, setting it up to fetch my e-mail, doing laundry, having my mail held, and telling the substitute teacher computer that I'm not available for two weeks. After all that I finally take the Metro train to LAX, but guess what? I won't be able to make it because of a bullshit homeland security rule. I checked in at an electronic kiosk 55 minutes before my flight. I thought I'd be fine, but the screen said I can't check in and told me to use the courtesy phone. The phone was black and I could barely hear the lady on the other end; didn't seem like courtesy to me. She said that because I'm taking an international flight, I'm supposed to check in an hour before my flight. I could have done that by cutting in line! I had to wait in line to get a paper ticket. The lady at the counter said there was no way to get on my flight, even though it wasn't going to leave for another 20 minutes! She gave me a flight that leaves at 7 in the morning. I have to wait around in the airport like Tom Hanks in The Terminal until the sun comes up. I'll be able to make the connecting flight to Warsaw, but I'm not happy about this new rule. A flight from Los Angeles to New York is not an international flight. It's a stupid rule.

Sunday, June 04, 2006

The Omen Birthday Party!

The Omen Birthday Party was more fun than I expected it to be. This is the power of karaoke. Where else can people sing dopey fun songs like "I Will Survive" and Bon Jovi's bubble gum classic, "Shot Throught the Heart"? I sang the Styx classic, "Renegade." My Satanic minions brought offerings of beer and the appetizer sampler plate. Next time, I'll sing a song by Led Zeppelin, the favorite music of my father, Satan! Muahahaha!